Lavender, roux, lemon zest, freshly milled grain and white peach pungently burst from the glass and then onto an energetic and gripping palate. The feel here is firm but faintly oily, and the effect of lees is felt as richness. Crushed stone, lemon seeds, and iodine-rich toasted shrimp shells convey mouthwatering intrigue in a penetrating, cheek-tugging finish that refreshes and invigorates with bright lemony acids and a musky bite of watermelon radish. When its author calls this Riesling “borderline painful in concentration,” he is not exaggerating, so readers who end up drinking it will probably split between those who think my score is excessive and those who think it is miserly.
92/100 Vinous/David Schildknecht
Deutschland / Mosel