The 2005 Colheita Tawny Port was bottled in 2015 with a long cork. Much darker in color than a bunch of similarly-aged tawnies (including one from Niepoort), this is also nicely concentrated for its age. It shows more complexity, but does not seem quite as youthful as most do at this age. That is not bad news, at least today, because it is sturdier and far more intriguing than most young ones, with dark, old-tawny flavors to go with its relatively stern demeanor. There is far more molasses than caramel on first taste. The finish then lingers very respectably for a young tawny. I liked this a lot. The only quibble is something it cannot fix—it is a young tawny, notwithstanding its demeanor. That means after a week or so open, it changes much faster (and declines a bit), unlike the long-aged powerhouses. It is still far more complex than young ones usually are. For its category and early on, the first couple of days, it often overachieves and easily exceeded expectations. It seemed like one of the more interesting young tawnies I have had of late. Pricing was not available as of this writing.
Mark Squires/The Wine Advocate